"So here we are in Egypt, land of the Pharaohs, land of the Ptolemies, land of Cleopatra ... What can I say about it all? What can I write you? As yet I am scarcely over the initial bedazzlement. It is like being hurled while still asleep onto the midst of a Beethoven symphony, with the brasses at their most ear splitting, the basses rumbling, and the flutes sighing away; each detail reaches out to grip you; it pinches you; and the more you concentrate on it the less you grab the whole. Then gradually all this becomes harmonious and the pieces fall into place themselves, in accordance with the laws of perspective." Gustave Flaubert, 1850

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